Fog - The Effects of...

Spring sunrise over a fog-shrouded Howth Head, Ireland

Well, it is a classic shot and one I never imagined I would be getting when I hit the fog on the M6 in north Staffordshire on Sunday night. You see, I was on my way back to the Holyhead-Dublin ferry, on route to West Cork for the start of my West Cork Photography Weekends spring season. However, my thoughts were, a foggy night = a wind-free night which also means a calm crossing. Even though my sea legs are improving a little after the numerous trips across the Irish sea, I still hope for a calm crossing, and thankfully I was in luck. An announcement for light seas was made and I bedded down...

But oh! Fog also means fog horns...all night!

I survived but with just minutes before the scheduled arrival time, the announcement came that due to the effects of the fog the trip up the Liffey would be rather slower than normal and docking would be half an hour later. Disaster! I was due to meet my photographer friend and fellow Photography Weekend tutor, Ray, in Howth for a dawn shoot, and dawn was progressing, unlike the last time we had met for a dawn shoot in Howth back in December 2013, when the dawn was later. That day, we enjoyed fantastic winter light and I was relieved to have just missed crossing the Irish Sea during one of the wildest storms of that winter.

Not so this time. A panic message from me on the boat rendered the reply in return
"Here in Howth shrouded in fog :-( Can just about see my hand in front of my face"

On first impressions, it looked as though I wasn't set to miss much on this Bank Holiday Monday morning, and yet it appeared fairly clear as I disembarked and drove towards Clontarf. Looking back along Tolka Quay, the tide was way out and stranding the little sailing boats along the pastel coloured horizon like a string of musical notes.

As I continued towards Bull Island, the sky began to colour up, and the reason for the lack of visibility just a couple of miles up the coast, was clear to see. A shroud of fog was wrapped around this peninsular, a home to many rich and famous over the years, with the top of Howth Head just popping out above the fog.

It was just too tempting - an impressive sunrise due to in part to the effects of the fog.
I just had to message
"Stopped for sun-up"
as I knew the moment wouldn't last. I captured the scene with the easiest camera to hand, my 'off duty' Olympus OM-D E-M10 and the the little 14-42mm pancake kit lens.

Even as I waited at the traffic lights on the empty roads in Sutton, the now heightening sun provided a spectacular introduction to the planned breakfast photo shoot. Unfortunately on arrival in Howth, the fog continued to hang around but I was delighted to have already bagged that classic sunrise shot back along the road. However, as any good photographer would, we were not going to miss an opportunity and turned our attentions to alternative subjects whilst we waited a little while longer for the fog to burn off.

Apart from making my once-tidy-no-wind-blown-hair-do into a frizzy mess, the moisture-laden foggy air had bejewelled the plants, grasses and spider webs that lined the paths up onto the head. It was no wonder that a certain someone was keen to put his smart new M.Zuiko Digital ED 40-150mm f/2.8 PRO lens to the test on his OM-D E-M5, and delighted in showing me the first enviable macro shots. (Psst! you had better keep an eye on that kit bag of yours now I have an Oly too!)

Happily, it wasn't long before the whole scene began to throw off the over-night cloak, and a trip back down to the quay revealed the calm waters in the harbour, another side-effect of the foggy night.

Just as it had been on our previous visit, the light was stunning but oh, so different, and that is why as photographers, we revisit places time and again for the different shots.

We had a similar reasoning with visits to Glendalough in September 2014 and January 2015 (but glad we didn't choose it on this Bank Holiday Monday - grid-locked according to reports I heard on the radio later!)

As the fog lifted, the reflections began to appear in the calm sea, effectively doubling the presence of Ireland's Eye. The town of Howth was beginning to wake up, and just as a pair of grey seals were having thoughts of where to get an easy meal, we too were thinking breakfast.

Brief as these photo shoots are, it is always good to meet up with a like-minded photographer. Where spending disproportionate amounts of time observing the world through a viewfinder is not seen as anything other than normal. Looking at the same shot but with different eyes is always refreshing. Being on our own agenda, and not being tied to a tour bus then crying as 'the shot' passes by (as happened on my recent trip to Iceland). Discussing the latest equipment, or finalising details for the up-coming Photography Weekends season - it is all part of a photographer's day at the office.




There may still be availability on a spring West Cork Photography Weekend - do ask!
Otherwise, I am now taking names of those who might be interested in an Autumn Photography Weekend - details to be finalised but provisional dates have been marked up for:
Sat 26 - Tue 29 Sept
Sat   3 - Tue   6 Oct
Sat 10 - Tue 13 Oct
Sat 17 - Tue 20 Oct

Maybe hope to see some of you on one of these!

Photography Weekends

Well, it has been a quiet week in terms of my blog following the daily postings during my August Challenge. (Thank you for all your support there) However, I haven't posted anything here as I have been busy with not only the usual shoots for clients but preparing for and launching a show in Design Essentials for the month of September. (More on that in another post) But there is one more thing I have been busy with - preparing to open my West Cork doors for Photography Weekends.

As many of you know, I am fortunate to be able to divide my time between life in East Anglia and escaping to West Cork. I have also had many of you comment on how lovely it looks and how much you too would love to visit. Well now I'm offering you the opportunity to do just that!

For three weekends during October, I will be hosting exclusive three night photographic breaks for beginners and improvers in a home from home environment. Group sizes are limited to four and will be fully escorted and inclusive. There will be opportunities to try many different aspects of photography whilst enjoying a holiday in this beautiful part of Ireland. The highlight of the weekend will be a trip out whale watching (weather permitting) with Cork Whale Watch, just as the season for cetacean activity is approaching its peak.

The long weekends run from Saturday to Tuesday on the following dates:

SB01 Saturday 11th — Tuesday 14th October 2014

SB02 Saturday 18th — Tuesday 21st October 2014

SB03 Saturday 25th — Tuesday 28th October 2014

NOTE: weekend two is now sold out, there is availability on weekend three and limited availability on weekend one.

For more details, go to my website and look for West Cork Photography Weekends in the Photo Courses section. If you would like to book, I recommend you don't hang about as interest has been keen since I first mentioned I would be offering these breaks and there are limited places. If however you won't be able to make it at short notice, then don't worry - I'm planning to expand the selection of breaks in the Spring and run similar breaks next Autumn (although they won't be at the same special introductory price next year!)

Only £475.00 per person*

Don't delay! Book today, or share this post with anyone you think would love this special opportunity.

Look forward to hearing from you!

The Hunt for Whale October

Although reluctantly leaving this years fallow deer rut-watch back in East Anglia, I knew I wasn't going to be missing out on some of the nature spectacles that take place during October, as out here in West Cork the whale season has already kicked off. Having spectacularly enjoyed displays from humpback whales here in the past, I was looking forward to further encounters in this corner of the Atlantic, known as Celtic Sea. No need to travel to Iceland, America and the like, it all happens here on our doorstep.

When not in Ireland, I'm easily able to keep up to date with whale activity via the Irish Whale and Dolphin Group
a conservation and research group, so I already knew that the humpbacks had returned to Irish waters this Autumn. Before Friday, they had last been observed off Slea Head on the Kerry coast, so hopes were high that they might have moved 'around the corner' to the waters within easy cruising distance from where we were to depart, at Castlehaven. As always, we were joining the enthusiastic Colin Barnes on the Holly Jo for one of the Cork Whale Watch trips, and wearing my IWDG hat as well as a visitors hat, I would be looking out for signs of any cetacean activity.

From Castlehaven Harbour looking towards the Stag Rocks

The weather had been less than favourable for whale watching for quite some number of days, so as the first trip out for a while, it would be anyones guess as to where to start looking for the whales. Leaving the shelter of the harbour, we made for the Stag Rocks, where shags, black backed gulls and hooded crows perched. The rocks around this landmark with a cleft secret, were unusually devoid of the basking seals which normally slipped into the water as we passed between its jagged fingers. Instead, they had moved to the tiny caves under the imposing rock which is Toe Head, to give birth to and look after their young, as it is also the breeding season for the grey seals.
Fluffy, creamy-white pups nestled at the back of the caves whilst the mums balanced on top of the exposed rocks, giving us a nonchalant wave as we passed by.

A little further west beyond The Stags, we got our first indication of possible activity. Diving gannets busied themselves as we motored closer.

As anticipated, there was associated activity. Diving gannets meant there were fish, and in this case also meant the presence of dolphins...

...and this was all going on in the now choppy waters beneath the headland we call home.

Short beaked common dolphins were bow riding the Holly Jo. Side by side, several mother and calf pairs fearlessly raced in front of the catamaran, whilst ahead of us, more of this pod of dolphins were swimming round and round to form a bait ball gannets and gulls alike taking advantage of this bounty.

As we watched from The Holly Jo, now bobbing engine-less along-side, two minke whales came in from the east. Excitement rose with this first encounter of the day with whales, that it might lead to a bout of lunge feeding. All cameras were focused on the fish/dolphin/bird frenzy waiting for a huge gaping mouth to come in and gulp down the lunch snack conveniently prepared by the dolphins.
And we waited.
Several times the minke swam up and around, seemingly eyeing up the menu but not once did they attempt a lunge at the bait ball. It appeared they weren't hungry enough to gatecrash this party.

As the tide turned, so did the Holly Jo following the 'big' news Colin had received, and we motored off eastwards.

As we drew nearer to the waters around Galley Head, we could see the small trawler belonging to the local fisherman who had called Colin to alert him to the presence of 2 or 3 fin whales, the second largest of all whales. Although reported as 'big' ones it can be surpringly tricky to spot the presence of these large whales, who have the ability to quickly cover larges areas. Twice we missed the tell-tale signs as another call came across that they were right in front of us. And then we saw it. A blow!

A wind-messed column of vapourised sea water lingered in the air long enough for us all to turn towards the area of potential action. Cameras were raised in anticipation but we had caught the last indicator of this latest surfacing and it would be another nine or ten minutes before they would be likely to surface again.

And so once again we waited, the sea conditions now becoming more difficult, with the little Holly Jo bobbing and rolling in the swell, and taking its toll on several of those on board. I breathed deeply, as I was determined not to miss this opportunity to observe these fin whales as I knew that my secret wish for a humpback sighting was going to be fruitless due to being just too early in the season.

Then there they were. A pair of large fin whales surfaced a few hundred metres in front of us. Shutters clicked away as the swell moved our viewing platform up and down, bringing the whales in and out of view. To capture any shot was going to be a bit of an achievement but I managed a run of four shots, the one above being 'the best of the day'.
You already know from previous posts that I am a realist when it comes to wildlife photography, and I know it can take years to achieve the perfect shots. Sadly, this fin image was a little too oblique to be able to use for identification purposes but I was just delighted that we had had this encounter with these impressive creatures. Delighted also, that after four fruitless whale trips over a number of years, himself had finally managed to observe whales too, and he was happy (if rather green).

By now, my sailing mates Stuge and Ron were doing everything in their power to keep me happy, and not wishing to push my luck any further, I settled myself down quietly on the bench behind the wheelhouse as we began to long roly-poly journey back. In my half asleep state, I was aware we had slowed, and thinking this was the harbour approaching, I paid little attention, only to find out later that there had been fin whales motoring alongside the boat just a few metres away.
You can't win them all!

After what seemed an age, my senses then went into overdrive, even with my eyes closed, I knew we had arrived at land - I could smell it! It was a smell I recalled from the very first time I sailed into Ireland nearly twenty years ago, and a smell I have smelled almost every time I have sailed in since then. For me, it is a comforting homely smell, for others, just the smell of muck-spread fields but on this particular day, it indicated the end of a successful trip to encounter these amazing monsters of the sea.

                                                                                 * * * * * *

If you would like to see fin whale action from the Holly Jo but don't have sea legs, then you are in luck!

BBC1 is currently airing a series called The Great British Year where it reveals a portrait of the dynamic nature of Britain over the course of one year. The final episode to be screened on 23rd October covers Autumn, and back last year, the film crew went aboard the Holly Jo with Colin, to capture the fin whale footage that will be shown (check out images 10 & 11)

A Whale of a Season

Humpback whale off the coast of West Cork

Firstly a quick mention to watch out tonight for Winterwatch 8 pm BBC 2.

Why?

Back at the start of December, Gordon Buchanan (of Polar Bear Family and Me. BBC 2) went out on the search for Humpback whales off the coast of South West Ireland. Here you will be able to see how he got on.

2012 has been a phenomenal year for whale activity down in West Cork, beginning with the incredible and unseasonal encounter I was fortunate enough to experience back in April, and when I joined a research trip with the IWDG out in the waters off Toe Head. Skippered by Colin Barnes, we spent an amazing day on board the Holly Jo. Colin, along with the IWDG have since been called on by the BBC several times this last year, to guide the film crews to the action, including this latest trip with Gordon Buchanan.

October had also been an eventful time, with film crews capturing some amazing cetacean activity. This, I believe, is scheduled to be shown next Winter in a BBC programme called Seasons.

Stag Rocks

At the beginning of November, we spent a brilliant afternoon with Colin up on Toe Head, looking out over the sea from Fastnet Rock in the far West, down on The Stag Rocks in front of us and round towards Galley Head to our East. We didn't know where to look first! Gannets were diving in their hundreds, the first indicator that there was masses of food.

Colin had observed that the Sprats and Herring were abundant, which also meant that the whales would be close behind. Sure enough it wasn't long before we were spotting the the tell-tale plumes from the blows as the whales surfaced, and the splash as the flukes hit the water.

Humpback whales, Minke and Fin whales were all easily spotted from the headland, as were the local fishing boats, also cashing in on the fish-rich waters.

Later in November, we all saw 'the' photograph in the papers and on TV, and famously on Have I Got News for You, of the whale breaching next to the boat full of whale-watchers looking the wrong way.

It was on the back of this amazing whale activity that the BBC returned with Gordon for this latest trip out on the Holly Jo. By this time, the whales had moved further East towards Cork, chasing the movement of their food and following the pattern they seem to follow each Winter, when they migrate along the South coast of Ireland up towards the South Eastern waters.

An ex-fisherman himself Colin understands the challenges and opportunities that the fishermen need to take to sustain a living. Equally however, on a conservation level, he has grown exceedingly alarmed of the seemingly indiscriminate 'hoovering-up' of the fish stocks in these particular waters, and which were seen to be plentiful in the eyes of the fishermen. Unfortunately, by taking out the newly re-established Sprats from the bottom of the food chain, it can have a knock-on effect. Both Sprat and Herring stocks were just starting to recover in the area. In turn, this may have drawn the whales back to the West Cork waters following a lean few years for the whale watching industry.

Both fishing and whale watching are legitimate industries in a shared resource, and as such, should work sympathetically alongside each other. If, in the future, we are to continue to enjoy the amazing spectacle of the whales in our local waters, (instead of travelling to America or Iceland) then there must be a much closer co-operation between all of the marine community. We must strive to protect our precious coastlines.

I will follow this with interest.

Humpback whale by the Stag Rocks

Colin Barnes, Whale Watching

It was forty years in October since Colin Barnes moved from his native Sussex to West Cork, in search of fishing grounds that weren't being exploited. As a young man in his twenties, he had noticed that neighbouring countries were not fishing the English Channel in a sustainable way and could see no future for himself staying where the fishing communities were going to suffer. So, he did some research into where fishing was "still happening" and after looking in The Lady magazine for some cheap accommodation ("As you did in those days!") he made the unusual choice to move to Ireland, taking a basic cottage near Baltimore for £3 per week.

Life was difficult to start with so Colin utilised his fishing knowledge putting out long lines to catch pollock, then swapping the fish with locals for bags of potatoes, to live off the land. Those same locals would frequently ask him why at a time when most people were leaving Ireland, he had chosen to do the opposite. Even folk back in England queried his decision to go to Ireland, as it was a country with a name, that back in the seventies, conjured up more bad impressions (wrongly) than good.

For this son of a non-sea-connected family he used the seafaring skills that seemingly came naturally to him, and which had first enabled him to skipper fishing charters out of Newhaven whilst still only a teenager. It was only to be a matter of time before his whole life was once again centred around the sea, this time in West Cork. His skills found him work on local boats, eventually acquiring a boat of his own, where he realised there was more money to be made from selective fishing. He would catch hake, which commanded a good price in Spain, as well as potting for prawn. He successfully fished, with his crew, for many years, using gill nets or long line and had no desire to trawl, as many around him did. He knew the damage this indiscriminate fishing was (and still is) causing to fish stocks and the marine environment in general. Even now he admits to hating the mass, unnecessary killing involved with trawled fish, and would rather only take what is needed.

Over time, the Irish fishing industry was also starting to suffer and in 2000, grants became available for taking up alternative sea-based occupations, in an attempt to de-commission some of the fishing fleet. Colin, already being familiar with fishing charters, put in an application for running an angling and diving vessel out of West Cork, never once considering that ultimately it would be whales and dolphins that would become the main attraction. With the ideally suited thirty-six foot catamaran, the Holly Jo, he embarked on a new stage of his seafaring life.

During those fishing and diving trips, Colin, always being in tune with the sea, would watch everything around him. Sea bird activity would indicate fish shoals which in turn lead to cetacean encounters and it became clear that it was this that would be worthwhile focusing on. And so Colin Barnes established the very first whale and dolphin watching trips in the region, sailing out of Castlehaven in West Cork. Whale Watch with Colin Barnes

Now, over ten years later, Colin Barnes has become the name synonymous with whale and dolphin watching, and rightly so. His knowledge of the local seas, of habitat, nature and wildlife all combine to come through as a passion which he shares with each and every one of the passengers that step aboard the Holly Jo.

My first trip out with Colin was a family trip back in 2002 where I recall that due to the early time in the season, the whales didn't show. That came as a bit of a blow to me. As a poor sailor I suffered even on the light seas, but Colin was determined to ensure we went home having seen something of marine life in the waters of West Cork.

Subsequent trips have provided a similar determination (and I, a determination to be a better sailor!) culminating in the amazing encounter back on 7th April.

The fact that Colin Barnes is the skipper of choice when it comes to research and conservation organisations, including the Irish Whale and Dolphin Group is testament to his care, passion and understanding. Along with the IWDG, Colin helps develop recommendations for responsible whale watching in marine eco-tourism and also developments in marine conservation, with particular reference to cetaceans. Such is his expertise, Colin is frequently involved with TV and film crews, including BBC Autumnwatch 2011 when he was joined by Iolo Williams, looking for fin whales off the coast of Ireland. Whilst most viewers will have had no idea how Iolo reached the whales, I was delighted to catch sight of Colin and the Holly Jo and, in my opinion, he deserved much more of a mention on air. Thankfully the BBC have now returned to Ireland this weekend, for more whale watching encounters with Colin for Seasons which should be aired in 2013. This helps to reinforce that the Republic of Ireland should be embraced as a nature-bountiful part of the British Isles, and not overlooked and left as a nameless blank space on weather maps.

Colin also featured in a wonderful programme produced by RTE, Living the Wildlife back in 2009 and he kindly let me borrow a copy of the programme to watch (as sadly it is no longer available on iPlayer) I will use a quote from the presenter to round off.

"(Colin is) One of the best whale guides you'll ever find. He really knows what he is doing. He doesn't disturb the animals and if anyone can find them, he can!"

Colin Stafford-Johnson

Bookings can be made by telephoning (00-353)028-36789 or (00-353) 086-327-3226.

Colin strongly advises booking and of course, the reliability and predictability of both weather and wildlife cannot be guaranteed! (Although the 2012 Autumn whale season was spectacular!)

Unfortunately Colin doesn't yet have a reliable internet service where he lives, but hopes that he might be able to be contacted via email in the near future but please don't hold that against him! Ring him - he is the one for Whale and Dolphin watching in West Cork.

Baltimore RNLI

At the far South West corner of Ireland lies the small community of Baltimore where today a special ceremony took place to name their new €3million Tamar class lifeboat, The Alan Massey.

This is one of two RNLI stations in particular, which I support out of all the brilliant crews around the UK and Ireland (the other being RNLI Southwold in the far East of England) and I do like to follow their happenings too. So, today I was rather sad to have missed out on the opportunity for best value flight fares to enable me to return to West Cork this weekend and join in with events.

I had already acquainted myself with the then newly arrived RNLB Alan Massey during a visit I made to West Cork back in February, when I saw it sitting resplendent in the harbour.

The Baltimore lifeboat station (as seen in the first image) located at Bull Point just around the corner from the main harbour, was not first suited to the new arrival, and the Alan Massey had to be temporarily moored in Baltimore harbour. Tom Bushe, Lifeboat Operations Manager said at the ceremony today. "The Alan Massey has already been called out 14 times since it arrived on 15th February" The outgoing RNLB Hilda Jarrett Tyne class lifeboat, which had served Baltimore since 1988 was most notably involved in the Rambler rescue in August 2011. However, along with the successful rescues there were also tragedies, more recently witnessing the search for the missing crewmen from the Tit Bonhomme in Glandore Harbour.

Here, we should show our gratitude to all RNLI volunteers and I have every respect for their bravery and dedication. I would like to take this opportunity to wish the crew of the Alan Massey lifeboat all the very best in their new vessel, hope that they may continue to save many lives in the future and be a beacon of safety to all those in the seas around West Cork.

Tit Bonhomme Ceremony

 

"Memorial.
This is a community project.
Dedicated to all those lost at sea from the parishes of Myross, Leap and Glandore"

Today, Irish President Michael D Higgins attended a ceremony in Union Hall, to remember the five fishermen who had died in the sinking of the trawler, 'Tit Bonhomme in January.

During my recent visit to West Cork, I was moved to see that a fitting memorial was already in the process of construction, scarcely three months on from the tragedy. The immediacy of this project clearly indicating the sheer enormity of the effect it had on these communities.

(The likes would still be being discussed three years on, here in the UK!)

It may look calm here but on 15th January it was a very different picture. The proximity to home is all too evident, with Glandore snuggling onto the hillside in the distance and the safety of Union Hall just around the corner. Mariners directions are to 'avoid Adam (the large island front right) and hug Eve' (the small island mid left).
We may never know what happened on that stormy morning but the Tit Bonhomme sadly still lies in the water at the point marked by the buoy.

'Tit Bonhomme Search Concludes

'Tit Bonhomme 15.01.12

In memory of the five men who lost their lives, caught in the nets of the sea,
may they all now rest in peace.

To the one who survived the grips of the sea,
may he find comfort.

For all those, family, friends, rescuers and the community of Union Hall,
may they find light now this dark shadow has been lifted.

For Those in Peril...

Union Hall fishing fleet and Tit Bonhomme in brighter times

From today there will be an unhappy space at the quay in Union Hall

Our thoughts are with family and friends of all those sadly lost today,
and tragically, so close to the place of safety.

Gone West

Today I am happy to say I have gone West again and to those observant people amongst you, no, I'm not in Sligo.

I'm actually back in wonderful West Cork and this fishing boat bears a registration mark just to confuse you. As you may (or may not) know, West Cork boats normally carry an S registration mark but this guy has 'gone fishing' outside the home territory of the vessel.